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Tuesday, 25 April 2017
Monday, 24 April 2017
Saturday, 22 April 2017
Key Driveway Renovation Tips to Preparing Your New Driveway Makeover
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Experiment with Different Materials
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Sealing Your Driveway
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Keeping the Concrete?
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Resurfacing Asphalt
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Choosing to Re-Pave the Driveway
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Pulling up the old pavers to make way for the new pavers.
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Evening out the ground to ensure its level for the new pavers to be placed down.
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Work out the square meterage you need to ensure you have enough pavers for the job.
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Add flowerbeds beside the driveway to help give it colour and beauty throughout the year. The flowers should be those that are able to withstand different weather changes and be exposed to the elements. They should also be low to the ground growing (unlike roses) to ensure your car won’t get damaged if they get too big and rub against the car.
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Depending on your driveway, you can also add a layer of smooth rocks or pebbles on top of the current driveway (if it’s dirt related) to give it more texture and appeal. Pebble driveways look great and are a cheaper alternative to hiring a professional.
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Repaint the driveway if it’s a little outdated or if you want to upgrade the look and don’t have the money. Many people opt to repaint the driveway to help give it a more modern look without the expense attached.
from Home My Heaven: Home Improvement Blog http://www.homemyheaven.co.uk/2017/04/key-driveway-renovation.html
Tuesday, 18 April 2017
How To Trim Fence Pickets – Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 2
If you missed part 1, here’s a little recap:
- Dad knocked over part of my fence last fall with the backhoe I rented in order to fill in and level out the back yard (it’s alright, you can laugh; we did!)
- I tried out a new product to set a new post, but it failed miserably, so I went back to using quick-dry concrete.
- Next up: fixing the water flow issue of having a fence and gate that’s touching the ground (that’s this post!)
Since my crazy furball Charlie loves to run around the yard (and tends to run straight through an open fence with no gate), fixing the fence became a priority spring project.
I had to remove the fence panels surrounding the gate in order to reset the post, so it was the perfect opportunity to fix a few more problems that had always been less than ideal. Namely, when the fence was first installed, I failed to account for how water flow might ruin the bottom of the fence and left each picket touching the ground. The result was mud buildup and an overall likelihood of needing to replace the pickets more often (from wood rot, warping, etc.).
The gate also touched the ground in spots that prevented it from opening further. Even though I’d done extensive work to even out the yard, my call to 811 last year revealed that there were utilities running near this spot, so I didn’t want to take any chances by digging up places I shouldn’t. Instead, the easier solution was to trim off enough of the bottom of the gate that it could swing open a little wider.
Some links in this post may contain affiliates, which basically give me a commission if you were to buy a product I recommend. It doesn’t change your price, though — and the income goes toward supporting this site. Thank you!
You’ll Need:
- Safety glasses and ear protection (I like the disposable ones with a cord)
- Circular saw
- Pencil (I have started using carpenters pencils, which are flatter than your traditional No. 2 and work really well for marking projects like these)
- Drill (this one’s mine) and bit that fits whichever exterior screws you buy
- Course thread exterior screws
This DIY is pretty straightforward. Starting with the fence panel on the right side, I used some nearby scalloped edging from the garden to elevate the panel off the ground and screw it back into the new fence post using exterior screws (drill slow at first so you don’t split the pickets). I could have cut off the bottom section (the part with all of that dirt buildup), but no one wants to spend more time on a project than they need to, so it was much easier just to lift everything a little off the ground than cut it down.
Next, I hung the gate back on the fence temporarily and opened it to the point where it was getting stuck. That gave me a way to make markings in the exact spot it would hang to make sure I was cutting at the correct angle. I took a spare fence picket and angled it along the fence panels of the gate. The bottom of this panel would serve as my marking line for the cut.
I ran a pencil along the bottom of the fence panel, creating a straight cutting line. While pretty much anything works to mark wood, I’ve found that carpenter’s pencils work really well for stuff like this (it’s wider and flatter than your typical marking utensil, so it runs along a board or straight edge nicely).
Next, I lifted the fence panel back up and off the gate again and laid it down on a frame from another outdoor project (I’ll be sharing that with you guys soon). This extra elevation lifted it slightly off the ground, making it easier for cutting and kept it stable. While this can be done solo (I originally moved the gate last fall on my own), the hardware makes it kind of heavy, so try to have a second set of hands if you can.
With the cut ready to go, I put on some safety goggles, lined up the cut on my circular saw, and made my cut.
Once the cut was finished, the gate went back on the hinges. This also allowed me to re-install the self-adjusting gate latch on the new post. Done!
It’s not perfect nor a particularly glamorous DIY (the gate now looks a little short compared to the rest of the fence), but I don’t mind; it serves its purpose and it looks a lot better from the street from where I started:
Of course, I still need to cut the top of the new post so that it’s not sticking up above the fence line and the fence could use a good power wash (and maybe stain?), but with everything fixed enough to be able to close the gate again, Charlie could finally enjoy the yard once more. <3
There are a few more outdoor DIYs coming up from this same weekend, so more on that new hedge and mulch line along the back fence in a future post as well!
The post How To Trim Fence Pickets – Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 2 appeared first on The Ugly Duckling House.
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from The Ugly Duckling House http://www.uglyducklinghouse.com/how-to-trim-fence-pickets-fence-fixing-part-2/
Friday, 14 April 2017
Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 1: How NOT to Anchor a Fence Post
When I first moved into the UDH, one of the very first projects my dad and I ever tackled was adding a small fence and gate to close off the back yard. In fact, it was the second blog post that I ever wrote — it was that early!
Since then, quite a lot of things have changed, including other improvements to the fence: replacing part of the chain link on the other side of the house, adding better gate hardware, planting garden beds next to it for added foliage (and to hide my neighbor’s fence that’s falling apart, which you can see more of in the pics below), and more. I’d like to think I’ve actually learned quite a bit about fences during that time. But last fall, there was a bit of an accident to this little section:
It happened during that awesome, sweaty week last summer when I rented a backhoe, ordered truckloads of dirt, and filled in the sink hole in a brutally humid August. My friends stopped by one night to help (truthfully, they really just wanted to play with the backhoe for a bit)…
…but as usual, it was my dad who helped out the most. Look at him go!
Please note: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which allows me to make a small commission from your purchase (but your purchase price stays the same). Thank you for helping support the blog! I appreciate it!
Even though we got a huge amount done in that week, there’s was just one little step in the wrong direction: during one of the return passes through the gate to get more dirt…
…Dad turned the wheel and crashed directly into my fence. It wasn’t enough of a collision to take out the fence as a whole or for him to be injured in any way (and it was kind of funny since all bets would have been on me to be the one with a runaway backhoe), but it did just enough damage to loosen the concrete and make the whole thing unstable. The post had been bent to an angle that could not be repaired, so I would have to replace it in order for the gate hardware (actually, the newly-installed gate hardware) to close properly.
I took the fence panel off and came up with a game plan to fix it, but I wasn’t in a huge hurry since I was busy working on lots of other projects all winter. Typically, you just buy a new pre-treated 4×4 and a bag of quick-dry concrete, reattach the hardware, and done (you actually don’t even need to separately mix the concrete… you literally pour the bag into the hole and water it down, poke it a few times to make sure the water mixes well enough, and stabilize the post so that it’s level — not a difficult DIY at all, just heavy). But as I made one of my usual supply runs to my local Orange, I spotted this little display:
According to the product’s advertising:
- This new product could fix my fence without the inconvenience of carrying around 50 pound bags of concrete through the store — “effectively replaces two 50 lb. bags of concrete mix.” Since I don’t like carrying heavy stuff unless it’s part of an obstacle course race, this was a selling point for me.
- The two components that are separated in the bag, once popped and mixed for about 20 seconds, form an expanding polyurethane resin that you pour it into the hole; in just 3 minutes, the product expands around the post and stabilizes it.
Basically, magic.
Given that I also love trying out new DIY products and being the guinea pig to see if something *really* works or not, I figured it would make for a really cool experiment. For around 3x the price (online it says it’s now cheaper, but I remember spending more), it was more expensive than the bag of concrete I’d initially planned to use, but I liked the idea of trying it out and picked it up anyway. Could it really work?
The short answer: no. Nope, nope, nope. But hey, I have cool pictures!
With the weather warming back up (and dry), the temperature was right to finally give it a try. I started by cleaning out the existing hole that contained the original post (any softer dirt, debris and such — Georgia’s red clay is pretty hard to begin with, but spring rain had caused some mud at the bottom of the hole). It may not look it from this photo, but the hole I started with was deep enough for the usual concrete that I would have poured otherwise (probably two-ish bags). It doesn’t really say it on the bag, but an online video that I found for this product says the hole should be 8 inches in diameter and one third of the length of the post should be in the ground.
I popped the bag and did a quick shimmy to get the two components to mix (note: there’s a very short window of time for this, about 20-30 seconds), then snipped a corner with some scissors and started pouring it into the post hole. The goop almost instantly started foaming up before I could snap a few pictures with my phone, which was pretty cool to watch. Over the next few minutes, I monitored the expansion and made sure the post stayed level (a post level would have been even better to use, but since I didn’t feel like making another trip to the store, two levels measuring both directions worked in a pinch).
I stood around for another ten minutes, watching the foam expand even further and even above ground (according to package directions, you can just trim off excess after it’s hardened). You’re supposed to let things cure additionally for another two hours before attaching anything to the post, but I had other things to tackle the rest of the afternoon, so I let it be for the rest of the day.
I gave it a few test wiggles that evening (well after the 2-hour “fully hardened” window on the packaging), which proved disappointing. The product wasn’t super stable around the post, and as you can see in the photo above, had even pulled away from the post while it expanded. I was still outside working on a few other things, and I could clearly see the post swaying slightly in the wind. I chose to leave it overnight and decide whether or not to re-attach the fence panel the next day.
The next afternoon, I pushed on the post. While it didn’t fall over, it still wiggled at the slightest nudge — nothing like the secure stability of setting the post in concrete. I guess one could argue not to expect they’d be exactly similar, except that the video I watched about the product literally had a guy climbing onto and hanging off the post as a demonstration of its strength. In my case, it took just a few more strong nudges, and the whole thing came right up out of the ground. Womp, womp.
Perhaps the hole I dug was still not deep enough (the foam only came up out of the ground a little, similar to what I’d seen in the video, so it looked plenty deep enough for the equivalent in concrete that it’s supposed to replace). Perhaps the ground around the hole wasn’t dry enough (the product didn’t really say much about water except to remove any standing water in the hole, and any loose soil had already been cleared out). So, while I’m sure that a lengthy investigation with the manufacturer would point out what step I must have not done perfectly in perfect conditions (because that hardly ever exists in real life, duh), I’d had enough of my experiment. I certainly think it’s cool when new products come out, and I’m willing to try them, but if the original way is both pretty much fool-proof and cheaper, I consider this a product flop.
The foam is easy to remove — I just hacked at it with a reciprocating saw and dumped the pieces. I noticed while removing it that the lack of expanding around the post was actually worse than I thought; somehow, air pockets had gotten into the resin, which probably contributed to its lack of stability.
With the junky foam shorn off, I grabbed an ol’ reliable bag of concrete and reset the post. Even though it took about fifteen minutes longer (well, a day of the other product and then fifteen minutes) to set enough to feel comfortable walking away, for me, this is the way to go from now on.
This post has gone on long enough, but there’s more that needed to still be done to get my fence and gate fixed up, so I’ll save that for part 2. And if you saw on Instagram, even more was accomplished elsewhere over the same weekend (remember this project?). More of that is coming as quickly as I can edit the photos!
P.S. In case you’re wondering, this wasn’t a sponsored post or anything, merely something I saw in store and wanted to try out. I know how it is when you see a new product and wonder if it’s worth the extra cost compared to the alternative — which is often cheaper, but more labor intensive — so from time to time, I let my house test things out. In years past, manufacturers have even reached out later to let me know these posts have helped them improve products that don’t work out, so I hope you found this helpful too!
The post Lessons in Fence Fixing, Part 1: How NOT to Anchor a Fence Post appeared first on The Ugly Duckling House.
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from The Ugly Duckling House http://www.uglyducklinghouse.com/fixing-fence-post-mix-review-part-1/
Wednesday, 12 April 2017
Advantages Of Using Engineered Oak Flooring
Cost Effective & Stylish
from Home My Heaven: Home Improvement Blog http://www.homemyheaven.co.uk/2017/04/oak-flooring.html
Interior design tips for first-time homeowners in London
from Home My Heaven: Home Improvement Blog http://www.homemyheaven.co.uk/2017/04/interior-design-tips-london.html
8 Top Tips to creating a luxurious living room
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A touch of velvet
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A chandelier
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Art deco
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Fireplace
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Furniture that’s a cut above
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A rug
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Crystal
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Window dressing
from Home My Heaven: Home Improvement Blog http://www.homemyheaven.co.uk/2017/04/creating-luxurious-living-room.html
6 key resources to have before investing in a property
from Home My Heaven: Home Improvement Blog http://www.homemyheaven.co.uk/2017/04/resources-investing-property.html